Pepino's

Molly Abraham, Detroit News Restaurant Critic: When Joe Bernardi retired as executive chef at Ford Motor Company headquarters in Dearborn, keeping the chairman happy with burgers made of New York strip steak, he went on to open his own restaurant. Chef Joe's two daughters, Kathy and Carol, now run the recently spruced-up restaurant where certain dishes have always been staples, especially rainbow trout meuniere, the top seller along with chargrilled lamb chops marinated in rosemary and garlic. Dinners are complete here, in time-honored roadhouse style, with soup or salad and potato and vegetable. Pepino's (it was a childhood nickname) draws a crowd of regulars but the welcome is equally warm for newcomers. Don't look for a hamburger made of New York strip, however.