Bangkok Hung Cafe

Molly Abraham: Another of the seemingly endless number of Thai cafes that dot strip malls throughout the area, this one manages to create a cozy atmosphere with the judicious use of deep-toned paint and hanging lamps that disguise the modest setting. A pared-down menu is served at lunch, with many added specialties in the evening, including barbecued beef with spicy sauce, a number of fried fish variations, including hot curry, garlic or sweet and sour sauces, barbecued duck and sauteed shrimp and scallops with peapods, bamboo shoots and green pepper. Soups are served for two, and appetizers including spicy chicken with garlic and black pepper and chicken satay, are large enough to share. Tables are closely packed but no one seems to mind.