Big Al's Fire House

Molly Abraham: The title of this restaurant is not just fantasy. The McDonald family has been a family of firefighters since 1943, and proprietor Allan McDonald spent 27 years in the Detroit fire department before opening his restaurant, a place overflowing with firefighting memorabilia. It's a quintessential American restaurant, unpretentious and likable with a menu that is a virtual hit parade of popular dishes, from barbecued chicken and ribs to pizza and steaks. It still offers a salad bar, and it is fresh and frequently replenished, and like much about Al's, has a homemade touch also evident in the hearty soups and the cheese-dusted breadsticks. There's a better beer list than a wine list and desserts are also-rans. Service by a young waitstaff is friendly and informal.