4th Street Grille

Molly Abraham, Detroit News Restaurant Critic: A straightforward American classics menu - dated and composed daily - offers everything from an array of steaks, some, like Chateaubriand, finished at tableside, to shrimp scampi in the classic garlic butter sauce, and veal dishes, including piccata and Oscar, all handsomely garnished, is served with flair at this 80-seat restaurant in downtown Rochester. Those who know the Brewery and Mr. Paul's Chop House will recognize the name of one of the proprietors, Garry Gogo. The Gogo family simply knows how to take care of people, making sure the service is as sharp as the menu, and how right they are. Service is a hallmark here along with a clubby, dark wood setting with a seductive light level. Good wine lists are also Gogo trademarks. This is a place that looks especially good in its holiday trappings, which fit the traditional setting.