The Hill Seafood & Chop House

Molly Abraham, Detroit News Restaurant Critic: The Hill was a hit from the moment it opened in airy quarters in Grosse Pointe Farms' strip of boutiques known as the Hill - thus the name. The well-run place strikes the right note between casual and formal. Traditional, but not stodgy, with an American menu that has many contemporary touches and is divided between meat and seafood choices including grilled pork loin filet, double-cut lamb chops, chargrilled Block Island swordfish, glazed salmon and filet mignon, all served completely garnished with appropriate trimmings. The bi-level setting has been updated by designer Ron Rea, giving it a fresher, lighter look than the original overly country club style. But one country club element survives in the emphasis on service. Lunch has been dropped from the schedule.